Toward Sustainable Fashion: Recycled, Recyclable, Repurposed, Upcycled?

People often confuse certain terms due to misuse. Recycling, repurposing… what’s the difference between these terms? Let’s break it down.

Upcycled Materials

These are materials that are reused in their raw form without being transformed to create new objects or products. The dormant stocks offered by L’Atelier des Matières are a perfect example of materials ready to be upcycled.

Repurposed Materials

These come from clothing, shoes, or leather goods given a new life after chemical or mechanical transformation, with a different purpose and aesthetic from their original use.

Recycled Fabrics

At their source, these include textiles either post-consumption or pre-consumption (from unsold items or production scraps) that are mechanically or chemically transformed into new fibers. Recycled fabrics are made by reweaving these regenerated fibers, often mixed with some virgin threads. The result? Recycled fabrics offer the same or even better quality than original textiles and can completely or partially replace virgin raw materials.

Recyclable Fabrics

These were mostly single-material textiles until recently. Now, advancements in research have made recycling multi-fiber textiles a reality. In any case, prioritizing recyclable materials today is a wise step toward expanding recycled fabric use in the future.

Recycling Processes

Textile Recycling Steps

The recycling process starts with meticulous sorting of recovered textiles by material composition and color. Then comes the removal of hard points (buttons, rivets, metal parts). From there, two main recycling techniques come into play: mechanical recycling (for both synthetic and natural textiles) and chemical recycling (for synthetic textiles only).

Mechanical recycling is the most common process today. It includes:

• Cutting, where fabric is shredded into tiny pieces for stuffing.
• Carding, which breaks down fabric to extract reusable fibers.
• Fiber extraction, which retrieves fibers long enough to be spun into yarn again—this is a significant challenge!

Textile Recyclability

To create collections from 100% recycled fabrics, the textile recycling industry faces significant challenges. L’Atelier des Matières and its partners aim to maximize material recycling and minimize downcycling. For example, in fashion, the ultimate goal is to regenerate used textiles into new garment-grade fabrics. Until recently, most recovered textiles were transformed into short fibers or particles suitable mainly for mattress padding or cleaning cloths. However, new innovations are producing longer fibers that, when blended with virgin fibers, can create fabrics for new garments. When will we see a garment made entirely of 100% recycled fibers? L’Atelier des Matières and its partners are working to make it a reality.

Textile Recyclability

To create collections from 100% recycled fabrics, the textile recycling industry faces significant challenges. L’Atelier des Matières and its partners aim to maximize material recycling and minimize downcycling. For example, in fashion, the ultimate goal is to regenerate used textiles into new garment-grade fabrics. Until recently, most recovered textiles were transformed into short fibers or particles suitable mainly for mattress padding or cleaning cloths. However, new innovations are producing longer fibers that, when blended with virgin fibers, can create fabrics for new garments. When will we see a garment made entirely of 100% recycled fibers? L’Atelier des Matières and its partners are working to make it a reality.

Different Types of Recycled Textiles

Recycled textiles share common benefits: their production involves rigorous sorting of recovered materials while reducing energy, dye, and water use compared to virgin materials. Recycling also reduces the amount of fabric sent to landfills, extending material lifespans by keeping them in circulation longer.

Natural Fiber Recycled Textiles

Recycled natural fibers are renewable and biodegradable, whether plant- or animal-based. Here’s how they gain a second life through recycling:

• Recycled Cotton: Made from cotton fabric scraps or unsold new cotton fabric. It’s often blended with new cotton to improve quality, as recycled cotton can wear out faster.
• Recycled Wool: Recycled wool has been around since the 19th century. The recycled wool fibers are shorter and break more easily during production, so they’re often blended with other fibers, like polyamide, for durability.
• Recycled Cashmere: Comes from 100% cashmere textile waste. Pre- or post-consumer cashmere knits are carefully sorted by color before being shredded and spun into new 100% recycled cashmere.
• Recycled Silk: Mainly made from silk scraps collected at various stages of textile production, such as spinning, weaving, or garment manufacturing.

Technical Materials from Repurposing

Beyond recycling, repurposing is another area of development for L’Atelier des Matières. Repurposed materials not only have aesthetic value but also functional applications. Padding, composite materials from repurposed leather, and others are used in shoes, leather goods, and even structural parts of garments.

Certifications for Recycled Textiles

Reliable Certifications

Recycled textiles often combine recycled and virgin fibers. Certification depends on the type of fiber:

• GOTS®: Guarantees organic textiles and fair trade practices.
• OEKO-TEX®: Certifies fabrics as free of harmful substances and produced under socially responsible conditions.
• Global Recycle Standard (GRS): Specifically for recycled materials, ensuring good social and environmental practices throughout production.

Choosing Recycled Fabrics Without Labels

Beyond certifications, the French AGEC law (Article 72) encourages responsible sourcing and production processes. Some innovations in sourcing and production outpace certification timelines. L’Atelier des Matières actively promotes “closed-loop” systems, transforming unsold clothing into new fabrics or garments even before labels catch up. This direct circularity ensures traceability and integrity, anticipating the principles of slow fashion.